St. Maria im Kapitol

There are things that exist only once—in the entire world. Keeping this thought in mind, you are offered a majestic moment at the sight of the last preserved wooden pictorial door of the Middle Ages: in St. Maria im Kapitol. 

Once likely reserved for important visitors, this pictorial door dates back to the construction period of the church around 1060, making it one of the most significant features of the church. But there is much more to discover in St. Maria im Kapitol, the largest and oldest of Cologne's 12 Romanesque churches.

Built on an Imposing Legacy

St. Maria im Kapitol stands on the remnants of the once most important Roman temple: the Capitol Temple. The suffix "im Kapitol" in the church's name hints at this. This temple for the Capitoline Triad—the three most significant Roman gods Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva—was probably built in the 2nd century AD and ranked amongst the most impressive buildings with its podium area of about 41 x 29.5 m and a surrounding temple court of about 90 x 69 m. There's actually a cork model of the temple at a scale of 1:50 in the Roman Praetorium. Therefore, St. Maria im Kapitol, like the other Romanesque churches in Cologne, closes the circle to Roman Cologne.

From Private Church to Main Church alongside the Cathedral

Over time, a private church was initially built on the temple ruins, donated by Plektrudis, wife of Pippin the Middle. Around 1040, construction of the current St. Maria im Kapitol began under Abbess Ida, granddaughter of Emperor Otto II and Empress Theophanu. Its floor plan was modeled after the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem with its tri-conch design. St. Maria im Kapitol quickly became the main church after the Cologne Cathedral. 

In the following centuries, the church was altered or expanded in several places, with additions like the Salvator Chapel and the Zwickel Chapel, windows were enlarged, and much more. In the 16th century, the rood screen was erected. However, World War II took a severe toll on the church, causing vaults to collapse and damaging the apses. Thus, the reconstruction of St. Maria im Kapitol took a long time, lasting until 1984.

Treasures, Oddities, and Legends

Besides the famous wooden door, St. Maria im Kapitol boasts a range of precious artifacts, such as the fork cross from before 1312, one of the most expressive crucifixes of suffering. Or the Renaissance rood screen, which, after a lengthy restoration, can again be seen today in the basilica. In the Salvator Chapel, you can view Christ Salvator and Mary as sandstone sculptures from 1465.

Of Whale Bones and Apples

The four bones of a Greenland whale hanging on the wall in the southern side nave initially break the devotional ambiance but are integrated into the church context when considered in light of the biblical story of Jonah and the whale. 

Incidentally, the bones do not originate, as one might suspect, from "Moby Dick"—the white whale that swam in the Rhine in 1966, marking the birth of the German environmental movement. They are much older, dating back to the Pleistocene era. 

You may also notice the real apples lying by the Madonna from the 12th century in the apsidal choir. Legend has it that Saint Hermann Joseph offered an apple to the statue, which then came to life. You could interpret this as liberation from the original sin of humankind, after tasting from the Tree of Knowledge despite the prohibition in the Garden of Eden. To this day, visitors and believers place apples before the statue.

The Life of Jesus on Door Panels: the Last Romanesque Pictorial Door

A highlight of St. Maria im Kapitol is the 4.85-meter high and 2.48-meter wide Romanesque pictorial door depicting the life of Jesus Christ with its originally 26 wooden reliefs. Twenty-five remain today, spread across two door panels: The left side shows scenes from his childhood and youth, while the right side focuses on Jesus' Passion and Resurrection. 

For 900 years, these two richly decorated and once colorful wooden panels closed the portal of the northern apse until they were moved inside to the southern side nave for preservation in 1930. Remarkably well-preserved, the wooden door of St. Maria im Kapitol is now regarded as one of the most important in art history. And equally unique.

Courtyard and Dreikönigenpförtchen

Before your visit to St. Maria im Kapitol comes to an end and you perhaps set off to one of the other Romanesque churches nearby—like St. Cäcilien, Groß St. Martin, or St. Georg—visit the courtyard behind the church. It's accessible only to pedestrians and is considered a hidden gem for those seeking a tranquil spot in the middle of the city. The name traces back to the Middle High German "lich," meaning corpse, referring to a former cemetery. 

Here you will also find the hidden Dreikönigenpförtchen from around 1330, beyond which the immunity district began—where city jurisdiction no longer applied—and through which, according to legend, Rainald of Dassel carried the relics of the Three Wise Men to Cologne. Whether true or not, the view through the portal, the tranquility of the place, walking through like Rainald of Dassel, is an experience worth having.